Ingredients and types

In its simplest form, sugaring pastes are made from three natural ingredients: sugar, lemon, and water. It is important to note, however, that brands often choose to include or substitute ingredients, such as replacing lemon juice with citric acid. This is done in an effort to ensure a consistent pH and strength, add shelf life, and reduce irritation since lemon juice’s acidity varies depending on the harvest and ripeness of the fruit.

The combination of ingredients is largely considered to be hypoallergenic and ideal for people with sensitive skin, as allergic reactions to the ingredients are extremely rare. In fact, Citric acid is not a true allergen at all because it’s not a protein (which is what typically causes allergic reactions). Given the high water content in pastes, they only adhere to dead skin cells, which can reduce the pain experienced by clients while reducing skin irritation.

Professional sugaring brands such as Tamara’s Sugar and Alexandria Professional typically offer up to five types of sugaring pastes, differentiated by the water content in each formula. These variations are designed to cater to specific climates, body areas, and hair types. For instance, firmer pastes are ideal for warmer environments or coarser hair, while softer pastes work well in cooler climates or on sensitive areas like the face or neck. Medium pastes are often preferred for intimate areas. All sugaring pastes are generally used at room temperature or can be preheated with a warmer or microwave to around 102°F (39°C). However, in warmer environments or climates, a cooler paste or firmer consistency may be preferred.

Waxing products generally contain up to 15 ingredients and often include chemically formulated resins, preservatives, and artificial fragrances. These ingredients can occasionally cause irritation or allergic reactions, especially for those with sensitive skin. Waxes are hydrophobic (aka ‘oil-loving’) and resin-based, which makes them non-selective in what they grip onto. The heat can soften the stratum corneum (outer skin layer), allowing the wax to grip deeper than intended. For these reasons, waxes adhere to both dead and live skin cells, especially if the skin is not properly exfoliated.

There are two main types of wax: soft wax and hard wax. Soft wax requires strips for removal and is generally more painful, as it removes the top layer of skin along with the hair. It’s commonly used on larger areas, like the legs, as it works faster than hard wax, though it carries a higher risk of skin irritation. Hard wax, on the other hand, hardens directly on the skin and is better suited for smaller, sensitive areas like the face and bikini. This method takes more time since the wax needs to harden before being removed by hand. Both soft and hard waxes are typically set at higher temperatures initially (up to 170°F), then lowered afterward to be client-safe. For this reason, practitioners must carefully test the temperature to ensure it does not burn a client.

Interesting fact: In a well-sourced report by Aveeno US, 71% of adults indicated that they have sensitive skin. This number was up a staggering +55% in just two decades!

Cleanup

Sugaring pastes are water-soluble, meaning they will easily dissolve in warm water. Simply wet a cloth and wipe away any remaining residue on the skin, equipment, or floor. Since no chemicals or specialized solutions are necessary, it makes the cleanup both quick and eco-friendly. Contrary to what you may have thought, sugaring doesn't leave a sticky feeling on the skin, so post-treatment cleanup is minimal.

Wax is not water-soluble, meaning that if it gets on your skin or any surface, you'll need an oil-based solution or specialized wax remover to break it down; these are often chemical-based. Cleanup can be more time-consuming, involving scrapers or tools to remove the wax from surfaces or equipment. Leftover wax on the skin may need to be dissolved and requires more effort to remove.

Techniques

Sugaring paste is hand-applied against the direction of hair growth and then is removed in the direction of growth using a flicking method. This technique ensures the pastes seep into the follicle and wrap around even the finest hairs, effectively ensuring the removal of both longer and shorter hairs without breaking the hair. The technique can result in fewer ingrown hairs.

Waxing is applied in the direction of hair growth and then is removed against the direction of hair growth. This is to ensure the practitioner gets a better grip on the hair for a clean removal at the root. This minimizes stubble or breakage (compared to shaving) and is more efficient since you don't need to go over the same area again. However, this method increases skin trauma and can lead to irritation, redness, and an increased likelihood of ingrown hairs, especially for curly or coarse hair.

Hygiene

Sugaring paste should be applied with a gloved hand, and professionals are taught to pull only the precise amount of paste needed for the treatment. When used correctly and in the proper sequence, a single ball of paste can be hygienically used on the client’s entire body. This method not only ensures minimal product is used but also reduces the potential for cross-contamination.

It is also important to note that given the high concentration of sugar, pastes are naturally antibacterial, preventing the growth of bacteria. The result is a lower risk of infection and contamination.

Waxing should also be completed with a gloved hand, but requires the use of sticks (and strips). Oftentimes, practitioners double-dip sticks back into the waxing pot after application, rather than using a new stick for each area. While this may reduce the supplies or overhead expenses for the practitioner, it does raise concerns about hygiene and can easily spread infections between clients.

To eliminate bacteria, some manufacturers add chemical agents to waxing formulas. When an antibacterial agent is not used, practitioners must heat the wax to temperatures of 160°F to 170°F (71°C to 77°C) to kill most types of bacteria. However, professional waxes are typically heated to a lower temperature for safe application on the skin, which is not high enough to guarantee the elimination of bacteria.

While higher temperatures can kill most bacteria, common skin pathogens, such as Staphylococcus aureus, may still survive. Additionally, spores and heat-resistant bacteria may not be fully eliminated even at high temperatures.

Risk of Allergic Reactions

Sugaring paste is generally made from naturally derived ingredients, which makes it less likely to cause allergic reactions. While very few people have allergic reactions to lemon juice, even fewer have reactions to citric acid. Unlike lemon juice, citric acid isn't a true allergen because it’s not a protein (which is what typically causes allergic reactions).

Fun fact: Citric acid can be found naturally in citrus fruits like lemons and limes or can be produced through the fermentation of sugar by mold. In a fermentation tank, a syrup mixture is made, which then Aspergillus niger (the type of mold) is added to these tanks. The mold feeds on the sugars under controlled conditions (like oxygen level, pH, and temperature). As it digests the sugar, it secretes citric acid into the solution. The mixture is then filtered to remove the mold, and the citric acid is further isolated, crystallized, and dried.

Waxing products have a higher reaction and allergy rate due to the complex formula and chemical-based ingredient list. Most soft and hard waxes contain ingredients such as rosin (a pine tree resin), synthetic resins, preservatives, dyes, and fragrances — all of which are potential irritants or allergens for sensitive individuals.

For example, rosin (also labeled as colophonium) is a common allergen that can trigger contact dermatitis in people with sensitivities. Fragrances and essential oils added for scent or soothing purposes can also cause skin reactions, especially if the skin barrier is already compromised from waxing. Additionally, because wax is applied warm and pulls at the skin, it can increase the risk of inflammation, which can make the skin more reactive overall.

Infection Risk

While proper hygiene plays a critical role in preventing infection, the nature of the hair removal method itself also contributes to the overall infection risk. Sugaring is gentler on the skin because it adheres only to dead skin cells and hair, helping to preserve the integrity of the skin barrier. This minimizes the likelihood of post-treatment inflammation or openings in the skin that bacteria could enter through. As a result, when sugaring is performed correctly, the skin is left less vulnerable to post-treatment infections.

In contrast, soft wax, in particular, adheres to both hair and live skin cells, which increases the likelihood of irritation, microscopic skin tears, or even surface-level abrasions. These small injuries may not always be visible but can serve as potential entry points for bacteria. When the skin barrier is compromised, even normal environmental exposure (like sweating, clothin friction, or touching the area with unwashed hands) can lead to infections such as folliculitis or bacterial dermatitis.

Clients with sensitive skin, recent sun exposure, or active breakouts are especially vulnerable to infections, and they should be informed of the importance of post-care — including keeping the area clean, dry, and free of friction for at least 24 hours after treatment.

Risk of Ingrown Hairs

Both sugaring and waxing can potentially cause ingrown hairs, especially if proper post-care isn't followed. However, sugaring tends to carry a lower risk. Because sugaring removes hair in the natural direction of growth, there's less tension on the follicle and a reduced chance of hair snapping beneath the skin’s surface. This method also helps guide the hair out more cleanly from the root, making it less likely to grow back improperly curled or trapped under the skin.

In addition, sugaring offers gentle exfoliation by lifting dead skin cells during treatment, which can further prevent the buildup that commonly contributes to ingrown hairs. When combined with regular at-home exfoliation, clients often notice fewer ingrown hairs over time with sugaring compared to other hair removal methods.

Waxing, on the other hand, pulls hair against the natural direction of growth. This can increase the likelihood of the hair breaking off just below or at the surface of the skin, especially in areas with coarse or curly hair. When the hair regrows, it may curl inward or become trapped beneath the skin, leading to inflamed bumps or even folliculitis. The trauma caused to the follicle can also result in hardened skin or blockages over time, making it harder for new hair to break through the surface.

Pro tip: Regardless of the method used, gentle exfoliation and moisturizing between appointments are key to minimizing ingrown hairs and keeping the skin smooth and healthy.

Risk of Skin Lifting or Bruising

Sugaring is generally considered a gentler method of hair removal, which translates to a lower likelihood of skin trauma such as lifting or bruising. The technique is well-suited for individuals with sensitive skin or conditions like eczema, as it is typically applied at a lower temperature and removed in a way that minimizes stress on the skin.

Waxing, particularly in delicate areas or on compromised skin, can increase the risk of skin lifting or bruising. Factors like dry skin, recent sun exposure, certain medications (such as retinoids), or underlying skin conditions can make the skin more vulnerable during waxing. If the wax is too hot, left on too long, or removed with excessive force, it may cause surface damage, leading to redness, tenderness, scabbing, or post-treatment bruising.

Tip: A thorough skin assessment and proper technique can greatly reduce these risks, especially when working on sensitive areas like the bikini line or underarms.

Environmental Impacts

Sugaring is considered eco-friendly as it is hand-applied and uses fewer single-use items. As mentioned, the paste itself is water-soluble, so clean-up requires no harsh chemicals or additional wipes. Pastes naturally dissolve, and many practitioners dispose of the used product in their compost bins.

Waxing often involves increased single-use items, such as strips and stick applicators, contributing to more waste in landfills. Additionally, waxes often contain synthetic ingredients that may not break down easily.

The Bottom Line

Both sugaring and waxing offer smooth, long-lasting results and can be effective methods of hair removal when performed properly. The right choice often comes down to individual skin type, hair texture, and personal preference.

Sugaring is a great option for those with sensitive skin, a preference for natural ingredients, or anyone looking for a gentler approach with a lower risk of irritation, ingrowns, or skin trauma. It’s also a more sustainable method, with minimal waste and water-soluble ingredients.

Waxing remains a popular and widely available option, particularly for clients who do not have delicate or reactive skin or for those seeking quick results, especially for larger body areas.